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Yom rishon, 30 Av 5768, Rosh Chodesh Aleph, Elul/31 August 2008, Sunday.
Chodesh tov.
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“Carry three liters of water per person per day.” As I glanced at my half-empty one liter bottle, I sort of wished that this sign had appeared several kilometers ago, or preferably, back at the youth hostel. As it was, I had equipped fourteen people with one liter of water each, thinking I was terribly clever to have thought of water at all.
It was beastly hot, and very humid. This was our group’s day off, after a week of working to clean up the destruction brought on by a month of war with
“Dress appropriately. Wear walking shoes and a hat.” Well, at least I could feel good about this. I was wearing my great walking shoes, which had aced out all other styles, after years of walking all over
“The trails are suitable for fit hikers only.” No kidding! I used to be in pretty good shape, but it had been a while since I had seen the inside of the gym. After an hour of hiking, and two incidents of concern over other hikers, a brief prayer seemed wise. “Hashem, please don’t let me make a fool of myself by passing out. Please get me to the falls.” The water was gone; and I could imagine that my bright red face would give concern to anybody who might bother to take a look at me.
I strengthened myself by focusing on the great judge and warrior, Devorah, who had shamed Barak into facing the Jewish people’s enemies. It did not matter that we had been told that this
At last! We made the Falls! The guys threw off various articles of clothing, and waded out into the water. We three women had a few decisions to make, without the benefit of a rabbi’s guidance. We figured out how to get into the water in a tzniut manner. And we helped each other to maintain our dignity and modesty while we swam. Not easy, but it added to the sense of accomplishment.
After swimming out to the falling water, and letting it pour down on my head, I floated off by myself, looking up at the perfect blue sky. Let me try to share with you how it felt. The relief of the cool water, after all that work… The intense beauty of the green growth around the falling water, tiny pink flowers laced through the emerald green… The laughter of the boys nearby (for there was no man-ness in those sweet kids playing under the waterfall, not to me, in those moments)… The warmth on my face… The rainbow shot through the falls… I began to cry with gratitude. “Thank you, Hashem, for giving me the privilege of being here, in the Golan that I love so much. Thank you for keeping me strong enough at nearly 50 to make this hike… Thank you for my beautiful family…” I begged Him to protect my soldiers, the anonymous group of young men for whom I had been davening since the beginning of this latest of
After a nice period, we got out of the water, and put ourselves back together. It was time to make the short but vertical climb to the parking lot, where the van and driver awaited us. A group of young people (and one very brave father of one of the young people) shot ahead. There was a group behind me, who were helping and being helped. I was in the middle, now by myself, able to sing softly, and hang onto the intense feeling of connectedness to the Briah. Even though the remainder of the hike was straight up, my wet clothing made it tolerable, even pleasant.
Finally, I made it to the parking lot. It was closing on evening. Since we were too few to have a minyan, men were standing at various edges of the parking lot, some draped in glowing white tzitzit, all wrapped in their own thoughts, davening to Hashem at their own paces. I stood in the middle of the quiet lot, feet together, eyes closed. You know how you feel two inches taller, when you achieve something physical you didn’t know you could do? I felt strong and healthy. I was marveling at the human body’s ability to stand perfectly still, perfectly balanced, even without sight. I was drinking as deeply as I could this incredible feeling of wholeness. All of my senses were heightened. I was in tune with the warmth of the sun on my skin, and the corresponding coolness of my wet clothing. I could smell the heat and green growth and motor oil in distinct layers of scent. The sound of the lazy, buzzing flies was intensified. I kept waiting for them to land on my face, prepared to brush them away. None landed. Just that slow, summery buzz, to add to my feeling of being one with G-d’s Creation.
Finally, after about ten minutes of standing just so, I opened my eyes. My clothing was covered with devorahs, with bees! There must have been fifty of the little yellow polka dots on the black dress. I was not afraid. I have never been afraid of bees, anyway; but at that moment, I had clear understanding. They were drinking water from my wet clothing. What an odd feeling of purpose: I was providing water for Hashem’s bees. It was beyond okay. It was perfect. The van driver came running toward me, gesticulating wildly, telling me in Hebrew what I knew already. I gently waved him away. “Zeh beseder, zeh beseder. Ani yoda’at.” He shook his head (“Crazy Americans!”), and returned to his van.
After a few moments, I gently shooed my bees away, and returned to the van, as the rest our party crested the hill.
There is so much that I love in Eretz Yisrael, so much that makes it Home to me.
So many shops and businesses have mezuzot on the doors.
Tour buses stop along the highways at mincha, and groups of 30 or 40 school children shuckle their way through the afternoon prayers by the side of the road. (Actually, the girls daven fervently; the boys shove each other and bother the girls. It is refreshing to see that my sons have a large and normal chevra.)
All kinds of women come to the Kotel on Shabbat afternoon: elderly ladies in shaitels with tichels, pressing gnarled hands against the stones and kissing their fingers, weeping for dark, unknown tsooris (both their own and the kehilla's), and davening with so much kavana, Moshiach should be here by now... young girls in elaborate fringed head scarves and flowing dresses of many colors, bringing all the power of Tsfat and new-found ahavat Hashem to their fervent prayers for the safety of Israel, for the healing of Am Yisrael, for success in finding their z'vugim... young, dark girls balanced on stiletto heels, in jeans of the painted-on variety, bright tops covering a bit less midriff than necessary, blonde curls flowing over much darker history... I am in awe of this last group. They are here, at this only-holy place, instead of hanging out on Rechov Ben Yehuda with boyfriends. They may meet them at earlier or later hours; but right now they are here, and with much feeling in their prayers. I know someone will be annoyed with me for being proud of them (either because of their status, or because it seems patronizing); and yet I am. I am so glad they are here, and I hope their prayers are answered, too.
As Shabbat wanes, I sit on the creamy white stone steps opposite the Kotel, eating the challah rolls and herring provided for seudat shlishit. By twos and threes, young Litvish bochrim begin to decorate the steps below me with a uniform sea of black hats. They talk and joke and eat, and after a while, the ruach leaders of the group begin to lead z'mirot. After a few minutes, they get a rhythm going, and one song leads into another. While they lack the intricate harmonies of the men in established choirs, they have the power and exuberance of youth. The absolute joy their singing creates brings tears!
Little children play in the streets at night. On Shabbat, they play IN the street itself; but even during the week, they are outside on the sidewalks, well after my friends in
Jews of every background are nice to me, and helpful, and patient. Taxi drivers and pharmacists help me with my Hebrew, offering aitzot for improving my study. Everyone seems to say "Be'ezrat Hashem," and "Baruch Hashem," even when they exhibit no outward signs of religiosity. It is mind-bending and humbling. It is indescribably sweet. As a dear friend of mine says, these "people speak my idiom."*
There are several radio stations which feature conversations about Hashem. Even stations with more mundane formats work into conversation something about the Parasha, or toss out quotes from Pirke Avot. You just don't get this on the American airwaves in too many places. Certainly, I could not enjoy the serenity of living in a small town in the US of A, and still get to hear the Shema at the opening of the radio broadcast, nor "Hatikva" at the end.
And speaking of the mundane: in Chutz l'Aretz, one must say "Asher yatzar" into one's cell phone, or while appearing to read a map on the wall. Otherwise, the locals may think that the Jew should be wearing foil on her head, as she is obviously communicating with the Mother Ship telepathically. In Israel, no one gives a second glance at a Jew whose lips are moving in silent prayer, regardless of the location.
This is what it is to be Home. To be taken for granted, in the warmest possible way.
*http://bataliyah.blogspot.com/2008/08/snapshots-from-holy-land.html